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Tag Archives: kedgeree

The Best Little Smokehouse in Derbyshire

30 Sunday Oct 2016

Posted by simon682 in Mostly Concerning Food, Uncategorized

≈ 21 Comments

Tags

bagels, Betty's, Harry Potter World, Jaquest, kedgeree, pancakes, smoked beef

Mainly Concerning Food

It has been a quiet month here in North East Derbyshire. Some visits by me to other English towns, some visits to us by family and friends, some reading, some cooking, some gardening, some gainful employment, some leisure time. One thing that has been completely absent has been rush. As I get older the word urgent has become an infrequent visitor to my thoughts. On some days it has been cold enough to light a fire and some days it hasn’t. But the fire is so nice to sit by that I light it anyway. It’s a family tradition. We come from folk who have known hard times but folk who kept the fire well stoked. Whatever season you visited a cousin, auntie, grandma in this family, you’d be offered cake and a seat in the chimney corner. We continue the tradition. Modern fires don’t use a lot of fuel and they give off a lot of heat. I’m looking forward to winter.dsc_0003This is a favourite. Unbeatable as a quick snack, a budget meal and a tasty treat; but also scores high on nutrition, sustainability and gastronomy. It’s the humble but very delicious sardines on toast. Can be made using a toaster but, like toasted cheese, is better using a grill. Toast the bread fully on one side and partially on the other. Butter (real butter please) and spread a couple of tinned sardines straight from the can. I prefer the ones in tomato sauce for this recipe. Sprinkle a few drops of tabasco sauce and return under the grill for a minute or two to finish. It’s one of those meals that don’t tempt until you’ve made it and then it is irresistible. What’s for tea? Sardines on toast. Can’t we have something better than that? Here you go. Any chance of some more?dsc_0005The East Midlands hasn’t yet developed a strong reputation as a food capital. Some supposed lesser counties have become associated with fine food shops and innovative restaurants. Shropshire is now known for good eating as is Cumbria. But we do have the same supermarkets (for better or worse) as the well-heeled areas and we have a few gems of our own. Some brilliant farm shops and a local charcuterie  and smoke house in Bolsover that trades under the name of Jaquest. This is a piece of smoked cod that is absolutely full of flavour. The firm is discretely sited and run by a modest man and wife team who pick up gold, silver and bronze medals for their products from food fairs around the country. This is as good as you’ll get anywhere in England and you’ll enjoy the experience of shopping with them. They are lovely people and to top things off, it’s superb value for money.dsc_0006Their bacon is a treat. Several different cures. I usually choose the standard cure which gives you a flavour and texture from the past. No un-foodlike slimy white oozings from these rashers as they cook. This is the real stuff. It has so little in common with the pre-packed product that comes off the supermarket shelves (even the supposed dry cure) that it seems incredible that we give it the same name. The taste of bacon like this, cured by strictly traditional methods on a small scale by people who care about food, is what gave bacon its reputation. That rubbery, squirmy stuff inserted into a pappy bun, at all too many sandwich shops, isn’t bacon. It’s a horribly processed meat that we have learnt to tolerate. And we shouldn’t. This is like comparing a true stilton to Dairylea. Even the rind cooks perfectly and adds crunch and depth of flavour to the sandwich or the breakfast.dsc_0007Jaquest also do a smoked Holoumi cheese. A single slice added to the nearly made bacon sandwich and then melted under the grill before eating turns a treat into a feast. dsc_0009There are as many different recipes for kedgeree as there are bogus recipes for Paella. It comes from the Raj and is obviously a dish prepared for people who are used to having servants and others to do for them. A real hotch-potch of ingredients. It all ends up in one dish but there is a lot of washing up with a kedgeree. I like Britain but its Imperial past isn’t an aspect that I feel any pride in. My recipe is the one I was brought up on. If any of my family made it to India it was as foot soldiers. Neither side of my family ever sat at the top table (on my mother’s side many were in service…my father’s side consists of miners, steel men and factory workers). My mothers favourite flavouring for fish and rice was parsley. I enjoy spicy kedgerees but given my druthers I’d always select this combination of Basmati rice, hard boiled eggs, poached smoked haddock (Jaquest), lots of black pepper and handfuls of chopped parsley. Serve with brown bread and butter. One of the great legacies of British imperialism is the wonderful multi-culutural society that parts of the country have become. My life has been enormously enhanced by this multi-culturalism.dsc_0010 dsc_0012Never had a fig until I was married with children. Only once had a pomegranate. We were told to use a pin to pick out the seeds. It took far too long and we lost interest. If you cut them in half and gently beat the outside with the back of a large knife the seeds fall out very easily. Suddenly the pomegranate is available in large numbers and low prices in most supermarkets. Visually stunning, as fresh as a morning meadow and apparently very good for you. To use the current stock phrase; what’s not to like?dsc_0014 dsc_0016I love bagels. Here the unusual combination of good cream cheese, capers and thin slices of venison salami (Jaquest gold medal winner, judged best salami in Britain). The salami is far too flavoured to over-indulge. It needs complimentary ideas and this works perfectly. I enjoyed these and then had two more!dsc_0017This black pudding was delicious and I cannot remember who made it. It came from a supermarket and I deliberately kept the card container somewhere safe so I’d know to buy it again. I found a very safe place and hope to find it one day. Black pudding has become the both ends of the spectrum and nothing in the middle food. You’ll find it on the poshest menus and you’ll find it in working class greasy spoon cafés but you won’t often see it in the centre field.dsc_0020Smoked rib of beef. I forget the exact name of the cut. Smoked to order by Jaquest, this isn’t easy to come by. I was lucky. Very lucky, this is a superb product. I simply took the proprietors advice and roasted it very slowly for 10 hours. I love cooking that fills the house with good smells. This was exceptional.dsc_0023 dsc_0024 dsc_0027It produced several meals. At first the richest flavoured roast beef I can remember eating for a long time. Here served English style with new potatoes, carrots and kale. The gravy from the roasting pan was unbelievable. Fabulous on its own but once I added a little English mustard it sang to the four corners of my mouth.dsc_0028 dsc_0031I’m not a great multi-tasker. I do like the golden filigree on the bottom and edges of my fried eggs but I have to confess that I rather over-did these fellows. It made no difference. I call this a Morland breakfast because this is what Nicholas Jenkins and Hugh Morland had on a memorable occasion in A Dance to the Music of Time (one of the truly great sequences of novels written in English). Every time I have this most simple of breakfasts I’m reminded of so many things from my own past as well as that fabulous book.dsc_0032Cold slices of smoked roast beef. Or roast smoked beef. Either way they made the most delicious sandwiches with some horseradish (T) and mustard (me).dsc_0033I have a slight regret that I stopped drinking beer at the same time as the craft beer movement really took off. The regrets are minor. I’m happy with the improvement in the British banger over the same period. I have mixed feelings about middle class people with no experience setting up companies with the words artisan and provender in the titles. But I’m happy to eat a good sausage wherever it comes from.dsc_0034The finest of many fine dishes to come from that £21 piece of beef. The bones were stocked for a number of hours and the stock made into a beef broth. Lots of the cold cuts plus onions, carrots and kale all supplemented with classic soup mix ingredients like yellow split peas, red lentils and pearl barley. This could have been made my my mother, my grandmother or my great grandmother…and that is the sort of food I like the best.dsc_0035Another tasty breakfast and a morning with the newspapers.dsc_0036 dsc_0038As the only member of the family who likes seafood I suffer a feast or famine regime. Long periods of going without and then finding I have to eat enough for four or five. Mussels are sold in bags of about a kilogram in Britain. This moules mariniere meant I didn’t have to eat again that day.dsc_0039 dsc_0041Four oysters. Some pepper, some freshly squeezed lime. Another working class staple that has made its way up the food hierarchies.dsc_0042I began this post with tinned sardines and now add a few fresh sardines. I head and gut them and fry them for a minute of two on each side and serve with bread and butter. Every bit as delicious as the earlier dish and just as east to make. (Both attract the attention of two cats and a sheep dog. I’m afraid there wasn’t enough to go round.dsc_0043Perhaps I spoke too soon. Maybe this was the piéce de resistance of the smoked beef. There are many ways of attaining the depth of flavour that separates the really good chilli from the ordinary. With  this beef it didn’t matter. The depth of flavour was there. Quite simply this was the best chilli I’ve ever tasted. Far too good to serve in any other way.dsc_0046Remarkable how much a sprinkle of lime and a dollop of soured cream adds to the dish. Do you use the word dollop in Australia, New Zealand and America?dsc_0050No month is complete without a simple steak dinner. It’s what I dreamed of as a boy and now measure out my happiness with.dsc_0060A simple cake baked by T for a school baking festival. Wonderful balance between the flavours of the different elements.dsc_0074How I plan to spend the winter. I travel a lot less in the darker months. I mostly work from home these days and once I’ve lit a fire I rarely move more than a few yards. Books, food, dog walks and music. Travel can wait until the days start to lengthen again.dsc_0065Mind you. A family trip to York included breakfast at Bettys with David and Melissa  made a very special treat.dsc_0072And ice-cream in a York ice-cream parlour.dsc_0006I wasn’t part of the big family trip to Harry Potter World. Jolly and I stayed at home and read a travel book by the fire. Before they set off I put in my biggest ever stint at the pancake pans. 2 pounds of flour, a dozen eggs made two large mixing bowls of batter and two pans going non stop for over half an hour. All our children with their partners filled the dining room with good cheer. It felt very quiet when they’d gone.

 

Day 223: Who Needs Meat?

12 Saturday Apr 2014

Posted by simon682 in Mostly Concerning Food, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

cherry pie, Cooperative Bank, creme fraiche, falafel, hard boiled eggs, kedgeree, Lent, Marks and Spencer, muesli, tagliatelle, vegetarian

Mostly Concerning Food.

 

Another week of Lent and another without eating meat.  I’ve  had vague feelings of missing it. Thoughts of shepherd’s pie and ham sandwiches fluttered through my mind and fluttered out again and off into the distance. I’m not a vegetarian and won’t become one for a little while. But the day is getting closer. I always knew that I’d stop smoking one day and I’ve long been of the feeling that I’ll end up a non-meat-eater: just not yet. It’s with a sense of drawing a little closer rather than with simple good intentions that I come towards the end of the six week Easter fast. It’s supposed to be forty days and forty nights but there are actually 46 days between Ash Wednesday (March 5th this year) and Holy Saturday (April 19th). As part of the Catholic liturgical calendar, Lent actually finishes before the mass of the Lord’s Supper on Maundy Thursday. I keep Lent in the same way as I keep Christmas; broadly in line with the church but with a little room for manoeuvre.

I’ve been good with the Christian fasting season for a number of years now. At first I gave up things I could quite easily manage without such as coffee or chocolate. Until packing in smoking I was never very fond of chocolate so it was only a step or two up from giving up watching Norwich City play football. For the last few years I’ve given up meat. It’s a challenge and, somewhat in keeping with the spirit of Lent, a preparation.

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I saw an old friend the other day; one I hadn’t seen for quite a few years. He was fulsome in his praise for how well I was looking. “You don’t look a day older.” he repeated several times. I’m not sure how I compare. I’m pleased with how I feel and (if you take a creaking back out of the equation) actually feel younger, healthier and more athletic than I did in my forties. Giving up smoking is huge (you could tell I was a smoker from my skin alone), not drinking alcohol has saved me more than a pocket full of cash, and a decent varied diet has served its purpose.

I don’t think I could ever give up meat and fish though. There wasn’t much fish in these sushi from Marks and Spencer; a little tinned tuna in the California roll. The rest were all vegetable. T went to Meadowhall on Sunday and came back with a basketful of teatime after finding that the person in charge of the discount labeller had discounted just about everything. These sushi were really very nice. I’m the only one who eats it so it simply isn’t worth making my own. The M & S stuff is every bit as good (actually a good deal better) than the stuff you get from Yo Sushi. And a a lot  cheaper.

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Also in the M & S hamper was a rather good muesli. I’m getting very fond of muesli and have rapidly moved in a health food direction. Not out of diligence to well-being. Simply because it is more enjoyable. I don’t want to be chewing on raw grains of wheat and barley but I do like a cereal where you can actually taste the ingredients and savour the texture. The more commercially successful mueslis are over sweetened and over processed. This one is a little more like listening to Merle Haggard than Miley Cyrus. A little rougher and not quite so instantly appealing but a thousand times superior.

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One salmon sandwich and one falafel in a flat bread feels like a perfect combination for Sunday teatime. The chick pea is one of natures big hitters. There isn’t much made with chick peas that fails to score the maximum points. We don’t often think of them as high health food but they make up a tasty one of your seven a day. (Used to be five a day but our government have just upped the advice).

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The simplest meals still make the most enjoyable. Monday tea was a cheese sandwich on brown bread with tomato and rocket. Eating well might not be rocket science but it may well be rocket salad.

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I love kedgeree and marvel at the mind that decided one day to mix rice, boiled egg and smoked fish. There are a huge number of variations of recipes. They all date back to the days of the Raj. (Britain’s imperial control of India). Many are creamy or even wet dishes and most are spiced. I like all of them but have a preference for the way my mother used to make it. The three main ingredients are spiced only with black pepper and a great big handful of chopped parsley.

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I normally cook rice perfectly but this time I use the method of boiling the (Basmati) rice in a large volume of water with the intention of draining it as soon as the first grains are ready. This time I leave it while I check emails and somehow 10 minutes disappear. There was plenty of water so no danger of it burning dry. It was rather overcooked but no less delicious. It isn’t a matter of getting it wrong. It simply has a different texture. Having said that, I have no plans of cooking the rice that way again.

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Tagliatelle with peppers and mushrooms in a crème fraîche sauce. I like to have a simple pasta dish at least once a week. It takes so little doing and tastes wonderful. Surely this is a contender for the least expenditure (in time and money) for the maximum eating pleasure.

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Even better when piled high with plenty of freshly grated parmesan cheese. I keep thinking I’ve cooked too much (I still make the same amount as when the children were at home) but we never have any left beyond the following day.

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The two fillets of smoked haddock that didn’t go into the kedgeree make a real feast for me on Thursday (On Wednesday I went to Ashby de la Zouch and am preparing a separate post on that). New potatoes and leeks form the base of this dish. Fish is the star of the show and the poached egg is the cherry on the cake. It’s not quite as greedy a portion as it looks. The plate is medium sized and the potatoes are cut quite small.

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My favourite tea is what we refer to as a cold collation. Here two variations of green salad go alongside a simple potato salad and they accompany a range of cheeses, bought as a selection for only £4, and that emblem of a summer dish; the hard boiled egg.

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All the dish requires is a good dressing and here a mixture of salt, pepper, sugar, lemon juice and olive oil provides a sparkle to the eye as well as the tastebud. Without a doubt the best meal of the week. As I’ve asked a time or two over the Lenten period; who needs meat?

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This is a shop bought cherry pie with some home made vanilla ice cream. The pie comes from The Co-op. The poor old Cooperative movement is going through a hard time at the moment having handed over the reins to a bunch of incompetents. Most banks have suffered through greed and over weening ambition. The Coop bank has risked 150 years of ethical service in an unethical world by appointing men who couldn’t oversee heavy drinking on a brewery trip. They hold the Johnson pennies so hope they come through. We buy a pie to help profits. Two days later they declare a £1.3 billion loss but the pie went very well with the ice cream.

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So good that I photographed it twice.

 

 

Day 167: Leaving School

15 Saturday Feb 2014

Posted by simon682 in Mostly Concerning Food, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

arborio rice, Basmati, Italian food, kedgeree, leaving school, Polenta, Risotto

Wheat in the South, Rice in the North; Polenta if you Have To.

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Two staple crops seems to be enough for most countries. Four is a little excessive. Italy produces large quantities of rice, wheat, maize and potatoes. It has developed things to do with potatoes and maize but these can be happily ignored by almost everyone, Italian and non-Italian. Gnocchi and polenta are not the things I would order in an Italian restaurant. They are not things I would order in any restaurant. I’m sure they can be very good but why have them when you can have any of the amazing dishes that the Italians make with either wheat or rice. Why use potatoes to make them when other cultures have come up with far better uses for maize and potatoes. Would you like pizza or something stodgy and filling? Would you like risotto or potato dumplings?

I’m sure they can be special. I just haven’t got round to balancing up numerous disappointments with the polenta and gnocchi over the years. It isn’t just me. Italians don’t much care for them much either. In fact, beyond the sort of people who have been seduced by their rather special names, they are not on many people’s choice of food from the boot shaped country. Polenta is still associated with being eaten because there wasn’t anything else. All Italian food has some link with poverty; polenta was the bottom of the pile.

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I don’t like it but I don’t care for much made from maize that isn’t eating the corn off the cob. Corn flakes fail to excite either my eating side or the treating side. Pop corn is horrible, grits are a mystery on this side of the Atlantic. They sound fun but are apparently a sort of porridge without the benefit of oats. The USA is by far the world’s biggest producer of corn. It is no surprise that the vast majority of it goes to feed livestock and a growing proportion of the rest is made into ethanol.

I like rice. I like all of the different types of rice I have ever eaten whether wild or cultivated, brown, black, white or scented. I like it long grain or short grain, Asian, Africa, American or European and even Australian. I like the speciality dishes that are made out of rice across the culinary world. I like the names. Polenta is a good name, but it doesn’t compare to kedgeree, paella, risotto, pilau, biryani. The different types of rice have equally wonderful names; basmati, arborio, carnoroli. In fact, in India alone there are twelve kinds of rice and that’s if you only count the types of rice from Kerala and then only count those beginning with K.

This week is as close to subsistence eating as we get. We hardly buy anything. Everything is out of the larder and everything is in the simple, quick and easy to make and very cheap. Under these conditions we invariably eat well. There is little correlation between how much you pay for a dish and how tasty it is. Sometimes you have to pay for strong flavours; venison, game and good olives. Much of the time the best flavours are among the cheaper ingredients; onions, lemons, tomatoes.

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Spices used to cost a King’s ransom. Drake grew rich on plundered Spanish gold. Many another British adventurer grew richer on a hold full of cloves and pepper corns. Italian food, like all the food cultures of Western Europe had long love affairs with spices before casting off in favour of  flavours of vegetables and herbs. Spices still play a part. Increasingly so as Eastern foods gain popularity. there is a definite renaissance in cumin, coriander, chilli and nutmegs.

Risotto is perhaps my favourite midweek dish. There can be little more relaxing than the making of it. throw some chopped onions into a goodly amount of oil in a wok and let them soften. This week I have peppers, T chooses red and yellow. They get added along with 250g of arborio rice. Once the rice has had chance to become coated and cook a little I add a good slosh of boiling water. This is a midweek dish and I’m not adding ladles of stock and cooking each down. A stock cube (chicken) gets crumbled in along with ground black pepper and a couple of tomatoes finely chopped. I keep the dish moving and as the water is absorbed I test the firmness of the rice and keep adding more water until the dish is creamy and delicious and the rice just nicely past al-dente. Shortly before completing the cooking I throw in some chopped celery. I like this to retain a strong crunch. The flavour, texture and way the vegetable mixes with parmesan, make celery an ideal extra ingredient.

We’re both hungry and serve ourselves healthy portions. Grate parmesan over the top and enjoy.

There is enough left over for school lunches. T microwaves hers, I have it cold. It would be hard to say which is best. This is a meal to come home to.

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T is poorly this week. She’s happy with tinned soups and toast. This suits me. I’m on my last week of working for other people. I’m in a celebratory mood each night and either treat myself to a steak, a risotto or a new tie each evening. The steak I enjoy with chips and two fried eggs. Chips; now, that’s a way to prepare potatoes!

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Also on the treat list is ice cream. It has been such foul weather. Up in Derbyshire we have merely had endless fairly awful weather. It has been depressing in its own way, but nothing compared to the poor folk in Somerset, the South West and the Welsh coast. I haven’t fancied ice cream too often until Wednesday when I have a need to find someway of celebrating completing my third last day of teaching. There is no better way of having ice cream than in a cone. Incidentally, it is the one foodstuff that Italian etiquette will allow you to eat standing up.

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On Tuesday I succumb to the temptation of a can of warming soup. I choose Heinz Mulligatawny. Enjoyable if hardly memorable. I’m reading the James Herriot books and tinned soup seems somehow fitting. Yes, that is a kindle you see. I prefer paper books but have overcome my aversion to tablet technology.

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Tuesday also sees me giving myself a choice for my packed lunch. I make two cheese sandwiches with the excellent bread from The Oven Door. It was bought on Saturday but makes perfectly good sandwiches three days later. I bake better bread but it can’t match this feature. One sandwich gets Pat’s Green Tomato Chutney (my second jar) and the other gets my beetroot chutney. It is a close run contest between two very enjoyable sandwiches.

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Friday is my last day as a teacher. I did my first day 28 years ago. I think that is probably enough. It is an enjoyable end to an enjoyable week. the Children are wonderful. We continue proper lesson right through to the end but I am overwhelmed by cards, treats and presents. I share many of them out with the classes but still bring home two carrier bags. I’ve only been there three months!

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Friday is also the day we say goodbye to a favourite old mug. This fellow came from Scarborough, has gone on many a picnic and even went round Ireland with me, strapped to the back of a bicycle. It seems an appropriate day to find a crack in it.

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I want to start my new life as I mean to continue. I sleep 10 hours and have a breakfast of poached haddock and eggs on a bed of spinach, served on slices of toast. If the new life continues as it began, I think I’m going to enjoy it very much indeed.

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Aberystwyth Alan Ladd Aldi asparagus Ballinasloe Barrow in Furness Betty's Bicycle bicycle tour Bill Bryson Birr Bonnie Prince Charlie Caithness Cardigan Carlisle Charles Lapworth Chesterfield Chris Bonnington claire trevor Cumberland Sausage Cumbria Cycle tour of England cycle tour of ireland Cycle tour of Scotland Cycle tour of Wales Cycling Derbyshire Dumfries Eli Wallach England Glencoe Halfords Ireland James Coburn James Hutton james stewart John Ford john wayne kedgeree Kilkenny Kris Kristofferson Lake District lidl Mark Wallington National Cycle Network New Ross Newtown Newtownstewart Northern Ireland Offaly Oscar Wilde pancakes Risotto Robert Burns Roscommon Scotland Scrambled eggs Shakespeare Shrewsbury Slieve Bloom Mountains Sligo Sperrin Mountains Staffordshire stagecoach Sutherland tagliatelle The Magnificent Seven Thomas Hardy Thurso ulverston vegetarian Waitrose Wales Wexford Yorkshire

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